Adventure in Middle Earth...I mean Glendalough

   This past week my class went to Glendalough in County Wicklow. It's only about an hour drive from Dublin and definitely worth the visit.

View from hiking path between lower valley and upper lake

  Although the main reason we went to Glendalough was for it's early medieval archaeology, the reason I loved it was the nature. Some parts of the hiking path made feel like I was in a Lord of the Rings movie. Just look at that moss!

  Glendalough is situated in a river valley. An early medieval monastic complex was built their in the 10th century and thrived for a few hundred years. Around the 17th century, nearly all of the trees were cut down to make coal. (Apparently there are hundreds of coal production sites hidden in the dense forest.) Luckily for us (and the environment), about 200 years ago, the forest was replanted. Unfortunately, the entire forest was replanted with oak - not the wide variety that had been deforested. That's not to say, however, that the forest isn't gorgeous, which it is.

 

  Plus there are all of the little waterfalls hidden everywhere.

   Of course, the archaeology and the view from the archaeology is pretty spectacular, too.

View from nondescript, circular archaeological monument

   Like I said earlier, Glendalough is the site of an medieval monastic site. Like all medieval monastic sites in Ireland, it has a few key features, like a round tower, a main church, whose west door faces the door of the tower, and a cemetery.

  Despite a few obvious health hazards...I think Glendalough makes a prime site for nomination as World Heritage site, mainly because it feels like one. I haven't gotten that feeling from anywhere else that we've visited.

The Titanic and Shankill

Last Sunday, I went to Belfast with the UCD International Student Society (ISS). Two of my fellow masters students also came. We had an awesome bus driver - at least for us history buffs in the back. He gave us a full run down of the Irish-English conflict through present day. By the time we reached our first stop, we were thoroughly aware of what had occurred during the Troubles (the conflict in Northern Ireland from the 1960s - late 1990s).

Source: itsthereforareason.com

  Luckily, our first stop wasn't quite as emotionally heavy as our bus ride. We started at the Titanic Experience. Built in 2012 to commemorate the construction of the Titanic in Belfast, the building itself is a work of art. Each pane of aluminum on the front is unique, signifying the unique individuals who sailed on Titanic's fateful journey. 

   Inside, there is a compass inlaid with lines leading outside the building. You can follow them to trace the Titanic's voyage.

   The upper walls are lined with the names of every ship that Harland and Wolff (the company that made the Titanic) ever made. Because of the angle, I was only able to get this picture, but there were hundreds of other names.

  The museum is really cool and has all of these interactive features that tell you about Belfast as a world leading industrial city - making ships, linen, and cigarettes during the early 20th century. There is also a ride that takes you through the construction of the Titanic and what it would have been like for the builders.
  Another cool thing was a virtual tour of the boat from top to bottom and another from the perspective of underwater archaeologists.

The Troubles and Shankill

  Next, we went on a 'Black Cab' Tour - the name is misleading, none of us were in black cabs, but I digress. These cabs took us through Shankill, the area that was central to the Troubles and is still under conflict to a degree. One of the most significant features is the wall that separates the Catholic/Irish side from the Protestant/British side. It's sad, really, but our cabbie seemed to think that the area just wasn't ready for the wall to be dismantled. A portion of the wall is called the 'Peace Wall.' People from all over the world have written pleas for peace and loving messages. Now mine is among them.

  The Shankill area is really sad. It looks like a prison camp, these run-down buildings separated by a 60ft wall. They have their own ways of 'brightening' it up though. Mainly through large murals like these:

William of Orange - his victory over the Catholic King James

I actually don't know what this is, another British victory I assume.

Commemorating a Ulster Volunteer Force (UVF) 'general'

Cuchulain - a mythical Irish hero adopted by both sides of the conflict.

  Most of these murals are upsetting. I feel like they only add to the tensions in the neighborhoods. I mean do you really need to commemorate car bombings and century-old 'victories'? I don't know.
  One of the most famous murals is the 'Mona Lisa of Belfast' called such because the sniper follows you no matter where you are

I don't know if you can really tell in the photos, but the gun really does follow you.

  On a happier note, we also got some free time to walk around Belfast. One of the first things we saw was the Belfast City Hall. I don't know if all tour guides go the same school, but both the cabbie and our bus driver made jokes about it being their house.

  It really is very opulent and you can tell that, at least when it was built, Belfast was a very wealthy city. 

  And to leave it, my favorite sight:

'Drink Feckin Responsibly, Take the Feckin Taxi...Feckin Irish Whiskey

 

 

Some more World Heritage Nominees...

  Like I said in my last post, my class also visited Monasterboice, an early medieval monastic site still used as a cemetery by the local community.

Me in front of one of the high crosses. The iconic round tower can be seen in the background.

It's nomination for World Heritage status has caused some tensions because if it gains the status, the community will no longer be able to bury their loved ones in or around the compound. This is unfortunate, because so much of what adds to the unique character of Monasterboice is the communities deep ties to it. You can tell that the locals hold Monasterboice very close to their hearts - and why shouldn't they generations of families have been buried there over the last several hundred years.
  In fact, the Victorians even realized the importance of the site and put a protective barrier around one of the earliest headstones.

  Monasterboice is nominated because it has the main characteristics of a traditional early medieval Irish monastery. Namely, an iconic round tower adjacent to a church (the church can be seen in the first photo)

Round Tower. Apparently it leans slightly and could be a health hazard. I don't see it.

  Also, Monasterboice is home to two of the tallest high crosses in Ireland. Due to their age and the Irish climate, the base stones and some of the artwork has begun to wear away. Despite this, they are still beautiful and many of the Bible scenes depicted are still highly visible.

High Cross at front of cemetery. The sides are a bit weathered, but the front is still very clear.

High Cross adjacent to church. Like on the other cross, Biblical scenes, including the crucifixion, are depicted.

  After much discussion, the three people in my group decided that while yes, Monasterboice is deserving of World Heritage status, if it received that status, it would lose an integral part of its designation - its continued use. If the local community was no longer allowed to bury there, Monasterboice would lose some of its Outstanding Universal Value because part of that value is its continual use as a site of a living tradition.

Navan Fort/Emain Macha, Co. Armagh, Northern Ireland, United Kingdom

  The next site we visited was Navan Fort, or Emain Macha, not to be confused with the town of Navan in Co. Meath. Emain Macha is the traditional royal site for Ulster. Ulster is the northernmost province of Ireland. Except for a few counties, all of it lies within Northern Ireland.

Source: livinginireland.ie

  Emain Macha is the royal site at the center of the Ulster Cycle - some of the oldest recorded myths in Ireland. Most famous perhaps is the 'Cattle Raid of Cooley' (Táin Bó Cúailnge), in which Queen Maev leads a raid to steal the famous bull of Cooley so that she will have a better bull than her husband.
  Anywho, Emain Macha is set up much like Tara: a large mound surrounded by a bank and ditch enclosure. Unfortunately, the surrounding landscape hasn't been as well protected. Nearby by there is an old quarry marring the landscape. Despite this, Emain Macha is still very impressive.

Central Mound. Unlike the Mound of the Hostages at Tara, it was not used for burial.

Here, you can see part of the bank and ditch - the dark line in the middle is the ridge of the bank.

Here is closer view of the bank and ditch.

  In terms of readiness for World Heritage status, Emain Macha is probably further ahead than Tara for two reasons. First, it already has a visitor centre and exhibition that can handle a fairly steady stream of visitors. Second, it has more financial support from the local council and national environmental agency.
  Another thing that Emain Macha shares with Tara is its incredible view. Unfortunately, it was rainy and I was sick, so the photos aren't quite as good as at Tara.

That's all for now. Next time: Belfast

Second Semester

     It has been a really long time since I updated this.

    I've been back in Ireland for a little over three weeks now. After a few days of getting readjusted to the time change, I started classes with hope for the new semester. They seem much more interesting than the classes I took this semester.

   One of my classes is about the state of World Heritage Management in Ireland. Most of the class is made up of field trips to potential World Heritage site across the country. Last week, we went to the Hill of Tara, which is currently on the tentative list as part of serial nomination for the Royal Sites of Ireland as World Heritage Sites.

   Tara is actually a huge landscape covering over 100 acres. It has been used since the Neolithic and even still sees the occasional sacred rite. This time we got see almost the entire site - including a section used during the Bronze Age.

   One of coolest parts of Tara is that you can see so far on a clear day. Despite the hill not being extraordinarily tall, you can see 23 of Ireland's 32 counties.

 

We also visited Monasterboice, an early medieval monastic site and active graveyard. I'll post about that next time.

Graduation Party and Waiting

  On June 9, my family had a huge graduation party/all-clear celebration. We had nearly a hundred people out to our farm. Not only did I graduate, but on June 8, one sister (S) graduated high school, and the twins (L&R) will be graduating from 8th grade. On top of that, my brother, who has had a brain tumor since he was nine, received news that he was nine-months cancer free and should move on with his life. Needless to say, this was a big day.

   We spent the whole week, and maybe a little more, getting ready. We made mostaccioli and Caesar salad, baked cookies and rolls, made posters and hung decorations. In fact, I was still prepping by the time the party started. 

  We all had a great time. Kids went swimming in the pond, played on the swing set, rode golf carts, and played volleyball. The adults mingled, went fishing, and just relaxed. I got to see some people that I haven't seen in years. It was fun.

  That night, I thought that I would be able to sign up for a dorm room at UCD. I was mistaken. Because I haven't been fully accepted, I am not allowed to apply for dorms. I am getting incredibly antsy. My college sent my transcripts on June 7, which means that UCD should be getting them anytime now. The transcripts were the last requirement for me to be fully accepted. So now, I'm waiting with baited breath. To make it worse, everyday, all the people at work ask when I'm going to find out. It just makes the whole thing nerve wracking. 

  On top of all that, I'm trying to lose weight - unsuccessfully so far - I've only managed to gain it, which just adds to my frustrations.

  Until next time - perhaps "Acceptance and Packing." Here's to hoping.

School's Out and A New Bank

  As of yesterday, I am a college graduate! That means I have met the requirements for acceptance to UCD. Now, I have my fingers crossed. I'm hoping my transcript gets to Dublin on time and that I get fully accepted to UCD.

In the meantime, I wait. There won't be any news from Dublin until the beginning of July, most likely. So, I'll be working for my parents' foundation repair company to earn some cash before I head to Ireland.

   That money will now be going to a Capital One 360 account. After much searching, I settled on the 360, because it is almost entirely fee free. That includes no foreign traction fees - a huge help for when I'm abroad. I'm still looking for a decent credit card and am open to suggestions.

That's all for now. I will post again after my graduation party in June.

Getting There

   Almost 6 months ago, I began the process to get my Masters in archaeology in Ireland. The process started with applying for a Fulbright. For those unfamiliar with this particular scholarship, a Fulbright is a scholarship funded by the US Department of State to encourage beneficial interaction between the US and foreign nations. The Fulbright covers total tuition if you are a student and provides a stipend for living expenses. I contacted schools throughout the UK trying to find someone willing to be my Fulbright adviser. My first positive contact was at the University of Glasgow, where they have a degree in Viking and Celtic Archaeology - exactly what I wanted. However, after a few emails back and forth, I stopped getting replies. So, I moved on. The next positive reply was from the University College Dublin, where they have specialists in early and early medieval Ireland, also pretty much what I wanted.
   Dr. Aidan O'Sullivan, who is the head of the graduate program of archaeology there, agreed to work with me, and we began the lengthy process of hammering out a project proposal. He was incredibly helpful in pointing me in the right direction. Here at home, I began working with the vice provost of my college to finish the US side of the Fulbright application. By early October, I had completed the application.

    Over Christmas, I found out I didn't get the scholarship. In the long run, I'm kinda glad. UCD still accepted me (provisionally - I have to graduate), and without the Fulbright, I can stay in Ireland and try to get a job after I complete my degree.
  Now, I am caught in a state of limbo. I can't wait to get to Ireland, but I've got to graduate first and I have a terrible case of senioritis. I have little desire to work on school. This is not helped by the fact that I only have night classes. I really need to get on top of things! The semester is halfway over already, and I have one 20 page paper due and the rough draft of a 25 page paper due in a little over 2 weeks. One is halfway finished, the other not even started. Well, the research is mostly there, just not the paper.
   Anywho, I keep looking to see what I need to take, how I should pack, when to by airline tickets (they're really cheap right now!), what bank/credit card to use, etc. It keeps distracting me because that is where I really want to be!